Despite its small area of only 1.77 square kilometers, Gulangyu enjoys a great reputation. Separated from the downtown area of Xiamen by straits less than a kilometer wide, the islet is a scenic spot under the jurisdiction of Xiamen City, Fujian Province.
 
Most people mistakenly assume that Gulangyu (literally Drum Wave Islet) was named after the all-year-round drumming of waves; in fact, the name originated from the Gulang Rock in front of the Gulangyu Villa. In the past, on the incoming tide, the waves would hit on the rock on the reef beach, as if they were loudly beating a drum. With the seaward advance of the sandy shore, waves can no longer reach the Gulang Rock, but it is said that if you put your ear to the rock on a blustery night you can hear faint muffled drumbeats.

Gulangyu is a completely pedestrianized area; even bikes are forbidden by law. The undulate asphalt roads spread out in all directions, turning the islet into a bewildering labyrinth.

The islet has only one or two long avenues in the real sense of the word. The rest are meandering paths or confusing lanes, some narrower than others, but all tidy and clean. The few fallen leaves, flowers and fruits only enhance rather than detract from their idyllic appeal. In the stillness of the day, Lujiao Road in the former legation district, and Zhangzhou Road and Fuxing Road in the residential villa district, seem long and remote; at night, stretching far out into the dark, they look mysterious and unfathomable. Every footstep of every rare passerby is quite distinct; the sound of a leaf or two falling mingles with those steps in syncopation.

The old banyans stand slanting and the bougainvilleas' dense branches, tipped with brilliant flower balls, sweep down like long hair. Though there are no gorgeous "sprays of red apricot blossoms over-stretching the walls" as one ancient poet put it, there are loquats, longans, papayas, and other fine southern plants, reaching over the high walls alone the roads to delight the eye.

A network of mossy lanes threads between low buildings, single storey houses and grand black-tile mansions, comprising stone steps and brick paths, interlaced with asphalt roads. Some parts are wide enough for three women to walk back side by side from their morning exercise. The narrowest allows in just a palm-sized patch of sunshine, just enough for the lazy cats to bask in by the door.

Gulangyu is best known for its wide variety of architecture. It is an overstatement to call it "a museum of world architecture" but it is an indisputable historical fact that the islet had a dozen or more consulates.

Among them are pure European-style villas. Although their vine-entangled portico columns and archways are now mottled and dilapidated, their exquisite lily carvings and magnificent classical Greek style can still be seen. The breeze gently sways the loose louver shutters, seeming to offer a glimpse of time back then... the fireplace, candlelight, fine porcelain, silver tableware and white satin dance shoes, carried away by the dance music on the phonograph...

There are the secluded grand residences of officials and of private citizens. In such mansions, the brass door knocker may be pitted and corroded, but it still sounds load and true; in the inner red-brick-paved courtyard grow sweet-scented osmanthus, orchids and Chinese roses; water drips from eaves onto bluestone, worn and pitted over years and years. The long landscape scroll hung in the middle hall, the antique gold-traced celadon pot on the sandalwood table, even the shoulders of the old courtyard sweeper¡­ all seem filmed with the dust of centuries, with the dust of history.

Hybrid Chinese-western style villas can also be found; in these the main body is Western, including a damp-proof basement with the last word in sanitary facilities, but the roofs have overhanging eaves and upswept corners, the door lintels are highly decorated, there are bow brackets and basket-shaped column capital. In the gardens, groups of fountains line up with rockeries and eight-sided pavilions. In the Bagualou (Eight Trigrams) Building, stylistic elements from mosque, Greek temple, Roman church and classic Chinese architecture are combined; this now serves as the Xiamen Museum.